Izmir - ancient Smyrna - is home to nearly three million people. Mostly burned down in the Turkish-Greek war of 1922, Izmir has been built pretty much from scratch and is nowadays booming and cosmopolitan. Its hot climate is offset by its location, straddling a (heavily polluted) 50km-long gulf fed by several streams and flanked by mountains on all sides. Despite an illustrious history, much of the city is relentlessly modern. Orientation can be confusing - many streets are unmarked - but most points of interest lie near each other and walking is the most enjoyable way of exploring. Izmir cannot be said to have a single centre, although Konak, the busy park, bus terminal and shopping centre on the waterfront, is where visitors spend most time. It’s marked by the ornate Saat Kulesi (clock tower), the city’s official symbol, and the Konak Mosque, distinguished by its facade of enamelled tiles. Southwest of here, the Archeological Museum (Tues-Sun 8.30am-5.30pm; $2.50) features an excellent collection of finds from all over Izmir province, including some stunning marble statues and sarcophagi. Immediately east of Konak is Izmir’s bazaar. The main drag, Anafartalar Caddesi, is lined with clothing, jewellery and shoe shops; Fevzipasa Bulvari and the alleys just south are strong on leather garments. Worth seeking out is the handsome Kizilara Gazi Kervanseray on 871 Sok, which has antique and carpet shops and houses a popular café. East, across Gaziosmanpasa Bulvari, the Agora (daily 8.30am-5.30pm; $2), commercial centre of the classical city, dates back to the early second century BC. Above this is the Kadifekale, an irregularly shaped fortress dating from Byzantine and Ottoman times that gives great views over the city from its pine-shaded tea garden (daily 9am-9pm). The less energetic can take a red-and-white city bus #33 from Konak, but it’s worth walking up from the agora, threading through once-elegant narrow streets.
Ferries anchor at the Alsancak terminal, 2km north of the centre, where there’s also a Turkish Maritime Lines office selling onward boat tickets; a taxi into town costs $3 or you could walk 250m south and pick up bus #2 (blue-and-white) from Alsancak train station. Intercity trains pull in at Basmane station, 1km from the seafront at the eastern end of Fevzipasa Bulvari. 
From the airport, there’s a shuttle train to Alsancak train station, although you’d be better off taking a Havas bus (which runs according to flight arrivals) to the THY office at the central Efes Hotel. The bus station is way out on the east side of the city, from where buses #50, #51 and #54 run to Basmane station and Konak. Buses to and from cesme depart from the Uckuyular bus station; bus #169 from Konak. There’s also a metrosystem ($0.65) that passes through Basmane, cankaya and Konak. The tourist office is at Akdeniz Mah., 1344 Sok 2, off Cumhuriyet Bulvari (daily 8.30am-noon & 1-5.30pm; tel 0232/483 5117).
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